Virgil Abloh, Nike | 輕鬆瘦下來的秘訣 - 2024年11月
Virgil Abloh, Nike
★球鞋近代史最偉大發明「The Ten」X LV男裝創意總監「Virgil Abloh」
★Nike X Off-White傳奇聯名企劃「The Ten」
★球鞋史上最大合作案—創作幕後首度完整公開
★鞋頭為之瘋狂,藏家必蒐的夢幻逸品!
「本書是理解我設計50多雙Nike鞋款心路歷程的唯一途徑。」 --當紅潮牌Off-White創辦人暨創意總監Virgil Abloh
2016年Nike聯手時尚鬼才Virgil Abloh打造「The Ten」系列,被視為球鞋史上最經典的聯名企畫之一。這本多達352頁的《ICONS》圖鑑百科,首度披露有「球鞋近代史最偉大發明」之稱「The Ten」合作計畫靈感與創作過程。
Abloh賦予Air Jordan 1、Air Max 90、Air Force 1以及Air Presto等最經典鞋款全新意義,也翻轉了球鞋文化。「The Ten」系列讓球鞋二手市場達到了前所未有的瘋狂,其鞋款在二手市場中最高價格已炒到上百萬台幣,比原價足足漲了約23倍,Abloh還曾以Ten系列中的Air Jordan 1勇奪球鞋網站Footwear News「年度最佳球鞋獎」。
《ICONS》收錄Abloh與Nike設計師往返的原始圖稿以及討論文字訊息,完整拼湊出Abloh創意發想與研究脈絡。
Abloh曾自述「The Ten」系列高於設計文化,不僅探討運動鞋,還突破性能和風格間的藩籬。Abloh在系列中大玩語言和雕塑元素, 運用字母、具諷刺意味的標籤、拼貼以及雕刻技術,賦予原始鞋款全新意義。Abloh受達達主義、建築理論和前衛藝術的啟發,分析每雙鞋的時代意義,讓每雙鞋同時成為工業設計、現成雕塑品,以及足上鞋履。
《ICONS》裡可見Abloh以膠帶跟線重現Air Jordans的品牌經典鉤鉤標誌Swooshe;Abloh風格的文字出現在Air Force 1引號裡;還有拆解後重組的All Stars鞋款。讓讀者一睹Abloh的創作心法以及Nike X Off-White聯名企畫每雙鞋獨特的設計原型。
Abloh此次與倫敦著名的設計工作室Zak Group共同構思《ICONS》兩大篇章:第一部分展示球鞋的視覺面向,第二部分則詳述推動計畫的關鍵人物、場域、物件、想法、素材及場景,是藏家搜尋的球鞋指南。
《ICONS》由Nike全球傳播編輯總監Nicholas Schonberger、《紐約客》專欄作家Troy Patterson、策展人暨歷史學家Glenn Adamson以及Virgil Abloh共同執筆。並邀請日本潮流教父藤原浩(Hiroshi Fujiwara)引言。全書採特殊裝楨Swiss binding,書頁可完全攤平,經典設計一覽無遺。
各界盛讚
「Virgil Abloh x Nike的終極回顧展。」 ― 澳洲球鞋文化獨立雜誌shoeerfreaker
「球鞋控保證會為之瘋狂!」― 生活雜誌robbreport
「本書為球鞋史上最大的合作案之一。當中連結了球鞋、藝術和時尚,是市面罕見的圖文書。」―流行時尚雜誌《Nylon》
The Sneaker as (Hyper)Object
Nike and Virgil Abloh reinvigorate 10 icons of sneaker history
In 2016, sportswear manufacturer Nike and fashion designer Virgil Abloh joined forces to create a sneaker collection celebrating 10 of the Oregon-based company’s most iconic shoes. With their project The Ten—which reimagines icons like Air Jordan 1, Air Max 90, Air Force 1, and Air Presto, among others—they reinvigorated sneaker culture.
Virgil Abloh’s new designs offer deep insights into engineering ingenuity and burst with cultural cachet. Drawing on the genius of the original shoe using lettering, ironic labels, collage, and sculpting techniques, Abloh plays with language and sculptural elements to construct new meaning. Inspired by the wit of Dadaism, architectural theory, and avant-garde happenings, he analyzes what makes each shoe iconic and deconstructs it into an artistic assemblage, making each shoe into a piece of industrial design, a readymade sculpture, and a wearable all at once.
Icons traces Abloh’s investigative, creative process through documentation of the prototypes, original text messages from Abloh to Nike designers, and treasures from the Nike archives. We find Swooshes sliced away from Air Jordans and reapplied with tape or thread, Abloh’s typical text fragments in quotation marks on Air Force 1, and All Stars cut into pieces. We take a look behind the scenes and witness Abloh’s DIY approach, which gives each model in the Off-WhiteTM c/o Nike collection its own unique touch.
The book documents Abloh’s cooperative way of working and reaffirms the power of print. For its design Nike and Abloh partnered with the acclaimed London-based design studio Zak Group. Together they conceived a two-part compendium, equal parts catalog and conceptual toolbox. The first part of the book presents a visual culture of sneakers while a lexicon in the second part defines the key people, places, objects, ideas, materials, and scenes from which the project grew. Texts by Nike’s Nicholas Schonberger, writer Troy Patterson, curator and historian Glenn Adamson, and Virgil Abloh himself frame the collaborative work within fashion and design history. A foreword by Hiroshi Fujiwara places the project within the historical continuum of Nike collaborators.
作者簡介
Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh跨足時尚、音樂、藝術文化等多元領域,自2018年擔任路易威登(Louis Vuitton)男裝創意總監。也是2012年創建的高級潮流服飾Off-White的首席創意總監兼創始人。2018年《時代》雜誌評為全球百大最具影響力人物之一。
他在威斯康辛大學取得土木工程學位後,又到伊利諾理工學院攻讀建築學碩士。芝加哥當代藝術博物館曾在2019年展示Virgil Abloh個人作品以及聯名設計,成為該館史上參觀人數最多的展覽之一。